KTM DDS Clutch Inspection & Replacement

6.01.2018
175 764 Näkymät

Correction- At 23:05 I discuss the belleville spring tensioner, but my description of the positions is the wrong way round. Position #1 will apply the most pressure and #3 the least pressure. Thanks to WTC for pointing this out...
Shows how to inspect KTM DDS clutch and replace the inner hub dampers and clutch plates.
2017 KTM 250EXC
KTM Clutch Kit Part # 54832011110
Tokyo Offroad Oil Drain Tool: www.tokyooffroad.com/product/oil-drain-tool-kit/

Kommentteja
  • Hi is this the same for the husky

    mad4dog27 .x clipsmad4dog27 .x clips16 päivää sitten
    • @Tokyo Offroad thanks ...u do excellent videos..

      mad4dog27 .x clipsmad4dog27 .x clips16 päivää sitten
    • Yes, the Husky is the same...

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad16 päivää sitten
  • Excellent video. If I done this I could follow your video the first time and breeze through the job

    H PhillipsH Phillips18 päivää sitten
  • Can I use Loctite 243 or 2701 instead of the 648, which I can't find?

    G JSG JSUukausi sitten
  • Hi mark, i saw that you put 800 ml of gear oil. In the service manual written to put oil until the oil comes out from the oil level bolt. For my brother six days it's 740 ml for my regular modle it's 750 ml. It's good enough or we should put 800 ml? We both have 2017 exc 250. Thank you 😊.

    א. כהןא. כהןUukausi sitten
    • @Tokyo Offroad thank you👍

      א. כהןא. כהןUukausi sitten
    • Yes, 800ml is overfilling and will create a little extra clutch drag, particularly when cold. In this video I measured the exact oil volume when going an oil change a found it to be 675ml: fiboth.info/like/videot/eJqug5zJlc6ndIM

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo OffroadUukausi sitten
  • Advise Please! My KTM 2018 xc-w clutch drags with the clutch lever fully pulled in to a point that if you lock up the rear it sometimes kills the engine. Thanks for all your videos. Peter

    Peter van RooyenPeter van Rooyen2 kuukautta sitten
    • Has it always dragged? If not, the cause is probably air in your clutch hose (replace the fluid and bleed), or the clutch master seal needs replacing.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad2 kuukautta sitten
  • Hello love your vids could u tell me were do u get the we dampers from I'm goin 2 put a new clucth in my bike an want 2 put new dampers in 2 like u hav done here thanks.

    Nicky YoungNicky Young3 kuukautta sitten
  • What size is the main nut at 9:09? I need to pick up on that large.

    Anthony NicklesAnthony Nickles3 kuukautta sitten
    • @Tokyo Offroad Thank you very much I am all the way to removing the basket I order a larger socket set and will be finishing the job soon. Thank you for a very informative video.

      Anthony NicklesAnthony Nickles3 kuukautta sitten
    • The not requires a 27mm socket

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad3 kuukautta sitten
  • Thank You Sir for your time, this video is perfect, very well done, congratulations. Best regards.

    InfoInfo3 kuukautta sitten
  • Great vid but I think that the ring on the first position applies more presure than on second position and the third position applies lowest presure to the spring.

    wtcwtc4 kuukautta sitten
    • @Tokyo Offroad Thanks for your response!

      wtcwtc4 kuukautta sitten
    • I just added a correction in the description of the video. Thanks again...

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad4 kuukautta sitten
    • Thanks for the feedback. Yes, you are correct, I got it round the wrong way when I was talking. Position #1 is strongest pressure and #3 is weakest. I'll add a note in the description.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad4 kuukautta sitten
  • 28:25 800 mm of gearbox oil :D

    Da MaestroDa Maestro5 kuukautta sitten
    • 800ml is OK to use, but it will result in a level higher than the oil level check bolt. The cons of using 800ml are an increase in clutch drag (particularly when cold) and oil cost. In a later video I measured the actual oil capacity required (675ml) and started using that in my 2017 and 2019 bikes. For my 2021 KTM 300TPI I've measured 720ml, the difference due to the engine being rotated forward a little.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad5 kuukautta sitten
  • Great Video however still don't have have enough confidence in my mechanical abilities to do this. But Props to you.

    Jim StrigelJim Strigel5 kuukautta sitten
  • @ minute 20:36 I've got the same kit for my Husaberg 2013 Te 300. I've measured the metal disks and found: 4 disks with 1.3~1.34 mm and only 3 with 1.4mm. I wonder if that's just a fabrication variation. I've mounted the internal 1mm with the "S" mark as you mentioned, then 2x 1.3mm, then 3x 1.4mm in the middle, the other 2x 1.3mm and the top 1mm disk. Tested the bike this weekend and worked just fine. Great channel, great videos! Best regards from Brazil!

    JaimeJaime5 kuukautta sitten
  • Fantastic demonstration

    Patrick MillsPatrick Mills5 kuukautta sitten
    • Thanks. Pleased that you enjoyed it.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad5 kuukautta sitten
  • My 300 got 150 hours and on one side of the clutch basket i can feel just bit of grooves on the edges. Can i file them down or is that a waste of time?

    dominik8152dominik81525 kuukautta sitten
    • @Tokyo Offroad Cheers! : )

      dominik8152dominik81525 kuukautta sitten
    • @dominik8152 - Thank you. It's good to have friends in far away countries with great riding! :-)

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad5 kuukautta sitten
    • @Tokyo Offroad thanks for your advice! Let me know if your are planing to go to Romania! I can show you around in the north west of the country or give you advices any kind regarding the country, riding, etc!

      dominik8152dominik81525 kuukautta sitten
    • @dominik8152 - Wow, I would would love to ride in Romania. Maybe some day... Personally I don't worry much about finding neutral. With the engine not running it's usually easier to find neutral and while out riding I never put my bike in neutral. Only at the very start of the ride, when I'm warming up the bike and at the end of the ride when I'm loading the bike do I put it in neutral. If you are having clutch engagement, or disengagement issues then that of course would be a problem, but I doubt very slight notching of the basket would cause a problem. My advise is to keep an eye on it and if you start feeling problems while riding then to reinspect the basket. Or if the cost isn't an issue you could decide to replace the basket early, but I think it will probably last a lot longer with no ride issues.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad5 kuukautta sitten
    • ​@Tokyo Offroad I ride hard enduro in romania, at erzberg, etc and motocross but i try to stay away from the clutch on the mototrack.. i already changed everything in the master and slave cylinder, but sometime its still bit tricky to get in neutral when i stop after a ride, does the metal plates have anything to do with that in your opinion?

      dominik8152dominik81525 kuukautta sitten
  • I used the clutch overhaul kit and when I finished fitting the spring was convex from the engine side, what should I do? I tried all 3 screw positions but nothing has changed

    Andrea CappellettiAndrea Cappelletti5 kuukautta sitten
    • Sorry to hear about the problem. Please measure how far off from flat the belleville spring is (use a steel rule and feeler gauges).

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad5 kuukautta sitten
  • Best and most detailed videos. Thanks a lot for this from Brazil! Will help me rebuild my Husaberg TE 300 2013 clutch

    JaimeJaime5 kuukautta sitten
    • Pleased you found the video useful...

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad5 kuukautta sitten
  • My kit had 3 metal plates, too. But not in the same quantity as yours. I put my thickest plates in the middle, as my worn pack was the worst there. More metal = more heat capacity, I figure. So they're setup as 1.0-1.3-1.3-1.4-1.4-1.4-1.3.-1.3-1.0.

    gophopgophop6 kuukautta sitten
  • My 2020 XC 300 TPI has a strained idle when not moving, in gear, no throttle and eventually stalls. It jerks the slightest bit when shifting from neutral to first but not a full on lurch forward with lots of wheel movement and it's really only noticeable if the bike is on a downhill slope. It does this whether cold or hot and it did it before it's first oil change and after its first oil change using the manufacture recommended Motrex oil. I read somewhere that it's just because it's a new clutch and that it will go away after a while. Also it did this since day one and I assumed KTM and the dealer wouldn't let this go out the door if it was an issues... I now have 20 hours on the bike. I got used to giving it a bit of throttle to keep it from stalling but a technical trail I was riding reminded me of this crappy issue. So if it is a wear-related problem and the clutch is still too new, with little wear (I don't ride super crazy), should I try running the bellevue-spring ring on position 1? My closest KTM dealer is not close at all. Last time I had it there for its 5 hour maintenance, they checked the idle and said it was fine. Not sure if they tried shifting it into gear or not.

    Daniel GDaniel G6 kuukautta sitten
    • @Tokyo Offroad Thanks for getting back to me and sorry for the delay. Work has been really busy and I was thinking I could record a video of it, as it would probably be easier for you to see what it's doing. I'll try to get a video posted this weekend. I think it's idling fine in neutral but this is also my first two stroke so I'm not 100% sure. I've always thought the idle sounded a little low, but the shop said it was fine when I brought it in at 5 hours. It doesn't stall when idling in neutral.

      Daniel GDaniel G6 kuukautta sitten
    • Sorry to hear about the problem. I'm assuming the bike idles OK in neutral? Where does the clutch start to engage? With two fingers on the clutch lever it should start engaging just after the lever comes off your other fingers gripping the handlebar. If you need to pull the lever right to the bar to disengage the clutch something is not right. I'd also try using 675ml of transmission oil (Motorex TopSpeed 15W-50) rather than 800ml. This will help reduce clutch drag. I measured the amount of oil required in this video: fiboth.info/like/videot/eJqug5zJlc6ndIM.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad6 kuukautta sitten
  • What if i cant get mybinner hub off i have a 2014 husky te300

    Tim Murray JrTim Murray Jr6 kuukautta sitten
  • why do you loctite the nut when there is a locking tab washer just curious?

    alan clarkealan clarke6 kuukautta sitten
    • It makes it even more secure and less likely to work loose during use. My recommendation regarding torque and threadlock is to follow what's specified in the service manual for your model. The details shown in this video are specific to my 2017 KTM 250 EXC.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad6 kuukautta sitten
  • When I install my pressure plate it does not sit flush like yours did

    IWORKYOUWATCHIWORKYOUWATCH7 kuukautta sitten
  • Adjustable spanners called knipex is t that the brand?

    Robert SmithRobert Smith8 kuukautta sitten
    • Yes, Knipex is the brand name. The model used in the video is Knipex 8603300 (12" Pliers Wrench). Really handy tool to have...

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad8 kuukautta sitten
  • Great video, Thank you!!!

    5mxmike5mxmike8 kuukautta sitten
  • Would the fiber thickness be the same on a 19 300i xcw? I just pulled my plates and the inner ring on the steel plates are black, fiber plates are 1.55-1.79mm thick. Can’t find the spec in my manual

    Twisted MountainTwisted Mountain11 kuukautta sitten
  • I didn’t pay any attention to the difference in steel plates thickness when I replaced mine, seems to be working. What happens if the steels are in wrong order (thickness wise)?

    Kristjan KalaKristjan Kala11 kuukautta sitten
  • Nice video! I have a Husqvarna FE350 and when I put it in first gear, the engine will die. If i will rev it or when the engine is warm it will not die. Do you know which could be the problem?

    radubo raduboradubo radubo11 kuukautta sitten
    • @Lourenço Bento No, not yet. I didn't had the time -baby twins :). I suspect that the metal plates are warped

      radubo raduboradubo radubo3 kuukautta sitten
    • I also have this problem in a 350. Did you ever figure it out?

      Lourenço BentoLourenço Bento3 kuukautta sitten
  • loctite useless when u already locked the nut with metal :)

    TheSlikstikTheSlikstik11 kuukautta sitten
  • do you ever have any issues of the outer basket notching? 14 250xc, clutch has gotten very heavy and the basket has some very small notches starting

    Chase CarmodyChase CarmodyVuosi sitten
    • Ya I will at some point. Notching is pretty light still so I would like to try and get a little more life out of it

      Chase CarmodyChase Carmody11 kuukautta sitten
    • Last time I inspected my 2017 KTM 250 EXC the basket was still OK regarding notching (had done 360H). If you have notching on the outer basket then it's probably a good idea to replace the basket.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad11 kuukautta sitten
  • FYI. 2015 500EXC calls for 80nm on the inner hub nut not 100nm

    Brrp BrrpBrrp BrrpVuosi sitten
    • Brrp Brrp - Yes, good point. The detail in the video refers to my 2017 KTM 250EXC 2-stroke. For other years and models definitely refer to your service manual for torque and threadlock good specifications.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo OffroadVuosi sitten
  • Dang I should of watched this first before doing the clutches on my bike. I just slapped the clutches in and went😂. Works just like it did when it was new but I’ll do it correctly the next time😬

    Lokis12Lokis12Vuosi sitten
  • thank you, best video replacement for sure!!!

    BICHLOEBICHLOEVuosi sitten
  • Great video! Which setting (1,2,or3) on the Belleville spring makes the clutch pull the lightest?

    Jason GaetzJason GaetzVuosi sitten
    • From 23:00 fiboth.info/like/videot/eZd8gH23nrfWZKU I explain the tensioner positions (Position 1= Less pressure (easiest clutch pull); Position 3= Most pressure (heavier clutch pull)). This information is correct for my 2017, but positions may be reversed on other models so best to check for your model...

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo OffroadVuosi sitten
  • One of the best video for ktm... Hope you make rebuilding the engine👊👊👊

    Jover BuhokJover BuhokVuosi sitten
  • Can this clutch be retrofitted to pre 2012 bikes? Is it any quieter? It seems some of the smaller newer bikes use a non damped version of this basket

    Nexus 7 TabletNexus 7 TabletVuosi sitten
    • There is a thread on KTM Talk (web forum) discussing this topic. Unfortunately it appears that a retrofit would be very difficult...

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo OffroadVuosi sitten
  • How many hours do you typically put on a clutch pack riding woods? Great videos, thanks!

    Aaron GrutzmacherAaron GrutzmacherVuosi sitten
    • @Tokyo Offroad Awesome, thanks so much for the recommendation.

      Aaron GrutzmacherAaron GrutzmacherVuosi sitten
    • About 180H seems to be a good interval for changing the clutch pack for the riding I do (mostly slower, steep mountain trail riding)

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo OffroadVuosi sitten
  • Great video Mark !

    Milos ZivkovicMilos ZivkovicVuosi sitten
  • Why did I just watch this whole thing when I know dang well I'm not going to touch my bike 🤣

    Tori GutierrezTori GutierrezVuosi sitten
    • LOL. Hopefully the video showed the ease/difficulty level of the work and what tools are required; allowing you to make an informed decision whether you'd like to tackle a clutch overhaul yourself next time it needs doing. Even if you decided not to do it yourself it's still good to know what's inside and what parts need replacing when a dealer gives you an estimate, or bill.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo OffroadVuosi sitten
  • Don't even have a KTM or even a 2 stroke for that matter.

    putbinootputbinootVuosi sitten
  • The ktm 250 dont have spring clutch??

    Angeline CellaAngeline CellaVuosi sitten
    • The DDS clutch uses a large belleville spring instead of coil springs. All late model KTM and Husqvarna off-road bikes use this clutch.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo OffroadVuosi sitten
  • do all dirtbikes have similar clutch engaging system? I mean the rod trough the axle

    Mijo ŠipekMijo ŠipekVuosi sitten
    • Yes, this is the most common way to actuate the clutch.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo OffroadVuosi sitten
  • Thank you for taking the time to do this. Very good instructor!

    kevin silvakevin silvaVuosi sitten
  • Awesome video - when I am going to change my clutch (which is soon), this will be my guide :-) Thank you.

    Andrew BoundyAndrew BoundyVuosi sitten
  • 👏👏👍👌🇳🇴

    jon s.s. teppdalenjon s.s. teppdalenVuosi sitten
  • Question - when reassembling the push rod and bearing are sitting prouder than in this video maybe like the push rod is in the extended position...when I put the pressure plate back on it does not sit back all the way. Is this normal? Can I just tighten the bolts and it will push the rod back in? PS - my son pulled in the clutch lever when it was apart - that might have caused this.

    D MorganD MorganVuosi sitten
    • @Tokyo Offroad Thanks so much for the quick reply and for all of the great work you do here. I really appreciate it.

      D MorganD MorganVuosi sitten
    • Duncan Morgan- Yes, pulling the clutch lever with the clutch disassembled will result in what you observed. When you reassemble the pressure plate/Belleville spring it should push the master back to the correct position.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo OffroadVuosi sitten
  • Great tip for the bolts in the cardboarb👍

    Hp EnduroHp EnduroVuosi sitten
  • Just used the video to replace my clutch and now it's working perfect! thanks Mark! :)

    Nir HasonNir HasonVuosi sitten
    • @Tokyo Offroad I must say that the most tricky part was tightening the 6 bolts of the belleville plate.

      Nir HasonNir HasonVuosi sitten
    • Nir Hason - That’s great. I’m pleased you found the video useful...

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo OffroadVuosi sitten
  • I just installed a new clutch kit on my 2018 ktm 300 and all of the plates were thick, there wasnt a 1.0mm . Im not sure why though

    TomTomVuosi sitten
    • @Tokyo Offroad yeah its awesome. From what i can gather they left the thicker plate in there so it gets slightly more clamping pressure. Ive got a midwest mountain engineering extra throw lever, and a 280psi pressure plate and it is so buttery its mad

      TomTomVuosi sitten
    • I see and thanks for the clarification. Hope the clutch operation is OK after fitting the new kit...

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo OffroadVuosi sitten
    • @Tokyo Offroad the new clutch kit had the backing plate with the S, and the rest were the same thickness The original clutch was the same as your video,

      TomTomVuosi sitten
    • TT - Are you saying all of the original steel plates were the same thickness, or the new clutch kit included steel plates all the same thickness?

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo OffroadVuosi sitten
  • Wow 7 days of riding without having to replace the clutch . Only on a KTM

    steve dentalsteve dentalVuosi sitten
  • Very very good to learn , thank you;)

    Miguel Ângelo C. C.Miguel Ângelo C. C.Vuosi sitten
  • so the adjustment on the belvil spring tensor would stop my clutch from being so grabby ??

    eddy currenteddy currentVuosi sitten
  • What was the tool that was used to bend the lock nut after the screw driver I live in the us and never seen one?

    eddy currenteddy currentVuosi sitten
    • @Tokyo Offroad thanks

      eddy currenteddy currentVuosi sitten
    • Knipex pliers wrench. The size used in the video was 300mm (12"), part number 8603300. Really nice tool and very handy.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo OffroadVuosi sitten
  • Great video. I rebuilt mine and now the clutch feels very tight and slips at high throttle. Tried changing between I, II, and III settings. I have clean oil and clutch fluid is at spec. Any idea what I missed here?

    Joshua PfenningJoshua PfenningVuosi sitten
    • @Tokyo Offroad Yes there is a set crew on the inside of the lever that allows for fine tuning. It was easy to do, but I overlooked it. Important to remember when rebuilding the clutch that the lever might need adjusting after. We really love these short Midwest levers. Clake look impressive but are quite pricey.

      Joshua PfenningJoshua PfenningVuosi sitten
    • @Joshua Pfenning - I'm pleased you found the issue. Have you been able to find an adjustment for the Midwest lever which works well? Two of my riding buddies tried Midwest clutch levers on their KTMs and couldn't find a position that worked well. Either it was slipping, or not disengaging fully. One ended up going back to stock the other got a Clake One Light Clutch. This was about 4 years ago so they might have redesigned it. Don't know...

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo OffroadVuosi sitten
    • @Tokyo Offroad Thanks very much for the thorough reply. I simply had to adjust my aftermarket clutch lever (Midwest). I should have thought of that before I pulled the clutch back apart 4 times looking for a mistake. Thanks again. I very much appreciate your videos. Super huge thanks for not running a loud and annoying music bed.

      Joshua PfenningJoshua PfenningVuosi sitten
    • Sorry to hear about the issue. Could you explain a bit more about what you mean by "feels very tight". Here are some questions and things to think about/check: 1) Did you install a new clutch pack (new fiber and steel plates) and soak all the fiber plates in oil before installation (preferably overnight, but at least a couple of hours)? 2) Did you measure the steel plates and order them correctly? 3) Did you orientate the steel plates with the sharp edges out? If the sharp edges are in the engagement may not be as positive and you may experience more slippage. 4) When you tried the I, II & III settings did you measure the flatness of the belleville spring? If so which position was flattest? 5) Check that nothing is preventing the clutch lever being fully released 6) Did you replace the damping rubbers? When you reinstalled the clutch hub did you install the spacer behind the hub? If the clutch pack is in good condition and installed correctly it should not slip at all...

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo OffroadVuosi sitten
  • Thanks great vid

    RODSRODSVuosi sitten
  • I have an urgent question regarding the metal plates: The one with the S is sharp on the side where the S is stamped into. So this one goes with the sharp side in and the others with the sharp side out. Is this correct? Please let me know!

    dominik8152dominik8152Vuosi sitten
    • @Tokyo Offroad Great! Thank you for the quick reply!

      dominik8152dominik8152Vuosi sitten
    • Yes, I have the S plate so the S is in, but it doesn't really matter because this plate doesn't move. All the other metal plates do move and I have them so the sharp edge side is out.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo OffroadVuosi sitten
  • What kind of effect can loose rubber dampeners have on the bike? I just ordered a new set as mine are loose themselves. The bike feels like the clutch is dragging at mid-to-top end. After inspecting the clutch, this was the only item of notice.

    Dan MyersDan MyersVuosi sitten
  • Your videos are veery therapeutic :D thank you for great information here.

    Özgür CeylanÖzgür CeylanVuosi sitten
  • If i switch from position 2 to 1 what will be the effect?when i m with the clutch in, in gear, the rpm s are droping too much and is chocking like...

    66AGW66AGWVuosi sitten
    • @Tokyo Offroad thank you for the answer!the bike is a 300 exc 2019 28h and is doing this since new...when is idleing is not bogging at all only when i pull the clutch in gear the rpm drops an bogs when i twist the throttle

      66AGW66AGWVuosi sitten
    • It sounds like you have a lot of clutch drag. What bike do you have? Has it always been like this, or started dragging recently? One likely cause is that you have air in the clutch hydraulic system. If so the cure would be to bleed the system.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo OffroadVuosi sitten
  • Your videos are fantastic, thanks for sharing them.

    Vold HookerVold HookerVuosi sitten
  • Can you pass me de tecnik manual please I have the same motorbikr

    jameja rodriguezjameja rodriguezVuosi sitten
    • I purchased my repair manual (DVD version) from my KTM dealer.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo OffroadVuosi sitten
  • Do U have schematic print out on ur homemade clutch tool for ktm 15 xcw 300 ? Or do U sell them. Great video by the way.tks

    Ardho RenaissanceArdho RenaissanceVuosi sitten
  • Thank you for the videos you make Sir !

    Roman AlexRoman AlexVuosi sitten
  • Hey man I live your videos, very informational. I am going to replace my clutch basket, once the hub is removed does it just slide off the shaft?

    COCOBOLOCOCOBOLOVuosi sitten
    • Tokyo Offroad Hey man I’m having some issues and was hoping you had some advice. I have a 2017 tx300 and the clutch will not fully disengage. I have bled the clutch, replaced the clutch disks, replaced the clutch basket in attempt to fix, to no avail. Is there anything you can think of? Very frustrating every time I lock up my rear break or come to a stop my bike stalls.

      COCOBOLOCOCOBOLOVuosi sitten
    • @Tokyo Offroad Awesome man thanks a lot.

      COCOBOLOCOCOBOLOVuosi sitten
    • Yes, the clutch basket will slide off the shaft once the inner hub has been removed. Be sure not to lose the spacer which goes between the inner hub and basket.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo OffroadVuosi sitten
  • How do i get one of those fancy Tokyo off-road oil drain tools? Looks like a compression tester fitting 😃.

    Andrew TheisAndrew TheisVuosi sitten
  • 2013 KTM 500 EXC here...72 hrs. My Belleville washer is slightly cupped upwards when I place a straight edge on it. (Haven't checked the gap as per manual), but think it's probably out of spec (too much gap). You say in this video that the adjuster plate will actually push down on the belleville washer, depending on where the adjuster bolts are set? My adjuster plate bolts are set on the #2 position. Should I set them to the #3 position to apply more downward pressure on the Belleville washer, making it flatter? What will more pressure on the washer do to affect the clutch feel/performance? Thanks bud

    Dan FowlerDan FowlerVuosi sitten
    • @Tokyo Offroad why would my clutch pack be thicker than normal, I wonder? Guess I should measure the plates as per owners manual

      Dan FowlerDan FowlerVuosi sitten
    • Dan Fowler - Flat is the stock setting and results in a good balance between clutch pull and lack of slippage. If your Belleville spring cups up when using the middle setting it means the clutch pack is thicker than normal (or isn’t seated correctly.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo OffroadVuosi sitten
    • @Tokyo Offroad ok thanks. So having the belleville spring sitting flat (a new spring), will result in what...less slippage...less pull from lever...linger clut h life? What caused my belleville washer to cup upwards?

      Dan FowlerDan FowlerVuosi sitten
    • Dan Fowler- Increasing the force will result in stronger clutch plate lock up (less likely to slip) and slightly heavier clutch pull force at the lever. My recommendation is to use a straight edge and measure the gap accurately using a feeler gauge set. Then base the adjustment on that.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo OffroadVuosi sitten
  • thanks for the good video! i need to do this today to my 300 tpi :)

    Stunt Freaks TeamStunt Freaks TeamVuosi sitten
    • Your TPI clutch should be exactly the same as the 2017 clutch shown in the video. Hope it overhaul goes well...

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo OffroadVuosi sitten
  • You mention 100 nm for the nut and Loctite, however the manual only says Loctite on the Primary Gear nut and 100 nm. The inner clutch hub nut says 80nm and nothing about Loctite for my 2014 450 SX-FE. Possible there is that much of a difference?

    DERDERVuosi sitten
    • My 2017 KTM 250 EXC Repair Manual states on page 195: Nut Inner Clutch Hub 100Nm Loctite 648; Nut Primary Gear 150Nm Loctite 648. The technical data section at the back of the manual where all the engine torque settings are listed also states the same, so I don't think it"s a mistake.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo OffroadVuosi sitten
  • Channel is called Tokyo but you ride Austrian

    charging7charging7Vuosi sitten
    • Channel is called Tokyo because I live in Tokyo.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo OffroadVuosi sitten
  • Subbed, good info

    charging7charging7Vuosi sitten
  • So refreshing to see a video like this that pays attention to important details. Thanks Tokyo Offroad!

    wayne modesittwayne modesitt2 vuotta sitten
  • wow. it's way too easy to replace clutch cushions on ktms compared to yamaha where they are riveted to the clutch basket. good design.

    RALPH PIAÑARRALPH PIAÑAR2 vuotta sitten
    • RALPH PIAÑAR - Yes, it sounds like the Yamaha dampers would take a lot more time to change.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad2 vuotta sitten
  • where can I buy the regular clutch hub holder tool?

    KTMmc4KTMmc42 vuotta sitten
    • EBC make some reasonably priced clutch holding tools. If you have a late model KTM 2-stroke the model 57-78023 should fit. Please check to make sure it fits your bike before ordering. Most of the large online store stock it.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad2 vuotta sitten
  • nice

    김성현김성현2 vuotta sitten
  • Make note: clutch cover bolts, there are long sizes there. The shorter of the longer clutch cover bolts goes in by the starter. If you install the long one there it will not tighten the clutch cover. It bottoms out on the outer cases of the starter area. Learned that the hard way.

    BikemancodyBikemancody2 vuotta sitten
  • 28:24 "800 millimeters of gearbox oil" hehe

    Karl-Oskar SandströmKarl-Oskar Sandström2 vuotta sitten
  • Damn boy! you are seriously detailed! You are the kind of person that would be working on my factory edition 450sxf. Good Stuff!

    deloon89bdeloon89b2 vuotta sitten
  • Hello Tokyo Offroad I have a Husqvarna 300 te 2017 . I am having a rough time with my clutch. It drags. I need to pull the lever all the way to the handlebar to disengage the clutch. And the bike keeps stalling all the time. It is worst in steep descents. I bought the bike used and I think the previous owner had a rekluse on it and took it off before selling the bike. I read on a dirt bike forum that the bellevile spring could solve the problem. And I quote : Posted January 6, 2017 "I had a horrible clutch dragging problem on my '14, the would stall with the lever pulled tight to your fingers. You could even dig a hole into the ground if you gave it gas. It essentially started engaging from just off the bars. The problem I noticed was that the pressure plate wouldn't lift evenly as the spring seemed to apply uneven pressure. I bought a new bellevile spring and bumped up the pretension it fixed the issue so that I can disengage the clutch with one finger and don't have to take all my fingers off the grip. If I remember correctly there is 3 different settings based on how you align the ring through which the bolts go. " Do you know something about it? Is it possible to fix it with bellevile tensioner ? Position 1 maybe? I would love to receive your comments on it. Thank you very much

    Ricardo CuetaraRicardo Cuetara2 vuotta sitten
    • Ricardo Cuetara have you solved that issue? I have the exact problem with dragging and i'm desperate now.

      DiDoSvKDiDoSvKVuosi sitten
    • @Tokyo Offroad Thank you very much for the advice!! I already changed the clutch hydraulic fluid. The clutch slave and the lever are stock KTM. I am going to proceed to remove the clutch cover and inspect the bike. The bike has a total of 50 hours on it. I would think the plates are in good condition. It is great to have your videos on how to. More so because I have pretty much the same components. Thank you Tokyo and please keep them coming. I will keep you inform on the outcome. Cheers

      Ricardo CuetaraRicardo Cuetara2 vuotta sitten
    • Ricardo Cuetara - My recommendation is to first change the clutch hydraulic fluid and ensure it is fully bled. Is the clutch slave the stock KTM one, or Rekluse? Also is the clutch lever stock? If possible return everything to stock and test. Once you’ve done that check to see if the clutch action is the same, or improved. If it’s still not right take lean the bike over to the left, remove the clutch cover and observe how the clutch moves when you pull the lever in. If you don’t see anything obviously wrong dissemble it and inspect the clutch. It should be exactly the same as the clutch in my bike, so you can compare the metal plate thickness dimensions to those noted in the video. Look out for warped and overheated plates. If replacing the clutch I highly recommend using a KTM OEM kit to avoid issue and ensure a long life.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad2 vuotta sitten
  • Was wondering if the clutch holder tool is necessary? I was going to replace my KTM DDS clutch with a Rekluse-auto and the Rekluse instructions show removing and tightening the basket nut with the bike in gear. Thanks and LOVE you videos. better than a service manual because I'm more visual than reading instructions. Videos really help.

    Toni ThompsonToni Thompson2 vuotta sitten
    • @Tokyo Offroad Thanks for the reply. I e-mailed their tech support right after i posted to you and they told me to use the impact to remove in gear and to replace its OK to put it in the highest gear and use the brake pedal. while torquing the basket nut. They do sell the holder tool too but he said it was not necessary. I have always used the homemade tool like you have in my past bikes. I just don't have any old plates. This is my first KTM.

      Toni ThompsonToni Thompson2 vuotta sitten
    • I had a look at the Rekluse video. They use an an air impact to remove the hub nut (which is what I do too) and you don't necessarily need to use a clutch holding tool for this. During the install the video shows using a torque wrench to torque the hub nut, but the guy is holding the inner hub with his hand. I'm pretty sure I wouldn't be able to do it myself like this. I've only ever done it using the clutch holder tool shown in the video and it works great. I do not recommend using an impact to install the hub nut as it's easy to over torque fasteners doing this.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad2 vuotta sitten
  • Great vid! Thks

    rodie173rodie1732 vuotta sitten
  • Thanks for the video! My manual (16 500EXC) says 80Nm (60ftlbs) for the clutch basket .... not 100 and no loctite

    KyronKyron2 vuotta sitten
    • k kon - Yes, I had a 2013 500EXC and the manual spec was the same as your 2016. However, for my 2017 250 EXC it does state 100Nm and to use Loctite. Probably no issue using the lower torque setting though, especially with the lock washer...

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad2 vuotta sitten
  • 👍💪🙏

    JoeJoe2 vuotta sitten
  • Weird that on the 2012-2016 250/300s it says to use 10nm on the clutch spring bolts and the clutch cover bolts and on the newer ones it says to use 6 and 8 respectively. I just stripped one of my clutch cover bolts either because of the 10nm or it was the wrong length. Edit: So it turns out all of the bolts are supposed to stick out the same amount when fully unscrewed. One was really far in and one was far out. I switched them around and it worked fine, I tightened them to 8nm and the one I stripped had enough thread further down to hold that one. After I had stripped it the first time I would've left it except the bottom of my clutch cover was leaking oil.

    Nathan SlocumNathan Slocum2 vuotta sitten
  • Great tip on using the cardboard to keep track of which nut goes where, but I ran into a problem when replacing the stock with a Hinson cover. On the 18's or maybe part of a running change, instead of using a 55mm bolt for that one spot, they made the cover thicker there to act as a washer and use all 60mm bolts. Hinson didn't update the cover so my dumbass ran the bolt until it hit the starter and cracked the cover. Now it's bound up (even with the bolt backed out) and won't turn over. Any ideas for freeing it up or will I need to replace parts of the starter?

    noControlnoControl2 vuotta sitten
    • Thanks, went ahead and ordered the replacement, but will try to repair the old one and keep as a spare. Now i'm just trying to figure out how much of the motor I need to take apart to get it. I think I can just unbolt the engine from the mounts to get at the starter cover and the starter bolts on the clutch side, then hopefully be able to get the bendix off and the the screw that holds the starter on on the other side just by removing the alternator cover and not have to take the rotor off.

      noControlnoControl2 vuotta sitten
    • Sorry to hear about the issue. My advice is to take the starter motor out, inspect it and figure out if the damage is something you can fix, or whether a new starter motor is required.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad2 vuotta sitten
  • どこで買えるんだよ!

    風音風音2 vuotta sitten
    • I purchased my clutch replacement kit from my local KTM dealer

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad2 vuotta sitten
  • Nice video very detailed and thorough. Thanks for sharing.

    Nature GuppyNature Guppy2 vuotta sitten
  • Excellent very well explained thanks

    Paul CardenPaul Carden2 vuotta sitten
  • KLATCH

    Green PieceGreen Piece2 vuotta sitten
  • Excellent video , nicely done !!

    donald lyledonald lyle2 vuotta sitten
  • good video

    SudzaboySudzaboy2 vuotta sitten
  • Good advice, thanks

    Jerry ManganJerry Mangan2 vuotta sitten
  • I had dampers break from heat cycles in ktm that only had 40 hrs....good job Mark

    Jerry ManganJerry Mangan2 vuotta sitten
    • Jerry Mangan - The time the dampers are sitting in the oil is also important. I think a good replacement interval is once a year, that way you should minimize any issues.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad2 vuotta sitten
  • On a 2014 or older ktm 300 xc has 250 bellville spring, would you recommend 280

    Jerry ManganJerry Mangan2 vuotta sitten
    • 280 hour clutch replacement interval? 200H is probably a good interval, but you could go a lot longer if you never abuse the clutch. Obviously if you notice the clutch slipping it’ll need inspecting

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad2 vuotta sitten
  • on mine 2017 500 exc there is also underneath the engine bolt with short oil screen, don't you have it on 250 exc?

    Wild OneWild One2 vuotta sitten
    • Yes, the procedure is the same regarding changing the DDS clutch on both 2-strokes and 4-strokes

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad2 vuotta sitten
    • oh, this is 2 stroke, sorry. Is that procedure/clutch same on 4 stroke BTW?

      Wild OneWild One2 vuotta sitten
    • Wild One - No, the 2-stokes don’t have any oil screens, or oil filter. Much simpler than a 4-stroke engine

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad2 vuotta sitten
  • Cant find the spec for the plates for my ktm exc 125 i have the manual

    jjoea Bhnjjoea Bhn2 vuotta sitten
  • It´s the same work on ktm 350 exc f 2017 ??? do you have this manual/repair service???

    Vik2015 VikVik2015 Vik2 vuotta sitten
  • Great video, as always. Where did you get PDF file of the service manual? (can you post a link please?)

    Nir HasonNir Hason2 vuotta sitten
    • I didn't know that I can order such thing. I'll check it out, thank you :) And thanks for being very responsive for the comment section!

      Nir HasonNir Hason2 vuotta sitten
    • I have the KTM DVD of the service manual. I ordered it from my local KTM dealer. It’s not expensive...

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad2 vuotta sitten
  • Just found your channel. Have you ever done a complete motor rebuild video? Would be a great help of what all goes into it since KTM is very particular and uses a lot of special pieces unlike other bikes.

    HybridEditsHybridEdits2 vuotta sitten
    • Tokyo Offroad damn thats crazy. Whats your thoughts on a 2013/14/15 250xc motors? How reliable are they?

      HybridEditsHybridEdits2 vuotta sitten
    • Bottom ends on the KTMs typically don’t need anything done until 500H or more. My 2017 has done 260H now (in just under 2 years), so it’ll be a while longer...

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad2 vuotta sitten
    • Tokyo Offroad alright cool. If you do one, do it on your 2 stroke bike as that is what I plan on getting next season. All these videos help me prepare for what ill be doing to the bike if i get one.

      HybridEditsHybridEdits2 vuotta sitten
    • No, I haven't done a bottom end rebuild video yet. I'll be sure to make one when the chance comes up in the future...

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad2 vuotta sitten
  • i have one question. is this the same on a sxf 450 2017 ?

    benji Kickkenbenji Kickken2 vuotta sitten
    • benji Kickken - Yes, the method is the same, although I’m not sure if the metal plate thicknesses are the same.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad2 vuotta sitten
  • Can worn out dampers cause a rattle upon start up?

    Dustin McGovneyDustin McGovney2 vuotta sitten
    • Dustin McGovney - No, if you’re just changing the cam chain tensioner the engine doesn’t need to be set to TDC. When the tensioner is out be careful not to turn the engine over as the chain can easily jump teeth on the cams when not tensioned.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad2 vuotta sitten
    • Yes, it’s a 2017 Husqvarna FC250. From what I’ve read it looks pretty easy. Is setting the engine at TDC required?

      Dustin McGovneyDustin McGovney2 vuotta sitten
    • fiboth.info/like/videot/h2J4p3Tdl6vUfq0m34s

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad2 vuotta sitten
    • Dustin McGovney - Replacing the cam chain tensioner is fairly straight forward. However, dual cam late model KTMs (250 and 350) typically require the right side radiator to be removed. Single cam bikes (450 and 500) are very easy. Please check your service manual for details regarding how to prepare the new cam chain tensioner before installation, or watch the 250F rebuild video I made recently.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad2 vuotta sitten
    • Is swapping the tensioner an easy task?

      Dustin McGovneyDustin McGovney2 vuotta sitten
  • fantastic vid is it the same on 500 4t?

    vxlgsivxlgsi2 vuotta sitten
    • Yes, the 500 4T also uses a DDS clutch so the replacement method is the same. However, the required clutch kit part number is different, so be sure to look up your year model when ordering.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad2 vuotta sitten
  • Is there any reason why a KTM clutch lever could feel more heavy than when new? I bought a 17' 250xc with 30 hours and a friend bought a new 250xc-w. His lever pull is lighter than mine. Any suggestions?

    KyleKyle2 vuotta sitten
    • Tokyo Offroad thanks for the reply, I'll look into it.

      KyleKyle2 vuotta sitten
    • Assuming that both clutches are completely stock (including the lever) there shouldn't be much difference in the clutch pull. You could try taking off your lever and lubricating the pivot and also where the lever presses on the clutch master push rod.

      Tokyo OffroadTokyo Offroad2 vuotta sitten
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